Countdown to Santiago!

I´m now in Melide, about 55k from Santiago-I´ve made up some time after my "break" and am now managing about 34k a day as it´s not so hot anymore so even at my slower pace it´s ok as can walk into the afternoon (still finding time for some siestas though!). I´m now in Galicia which is known as "Celtic Spain", and I can see why- there is gorse and heather everywhere, pine trees, it rains every day and I even arrived at a moutain-top village to the sound of bagpipes a few days ago! The area I´m in now is famous for it´s cherries which are in season now and ridiculously juicy and cheap- 1kg for 0.5euro from roadside stands! Although I would now add "Never eat 1kg of cherries in one sitting before climbing a mountain" to the list of things I learnt on the camino (heard about another pilgrim who made a similar mistake after not being able to resist 2litres of wine for 1euro from the vineyards a while back!).

It´s very popular for people to walk the last 100k of the pilgrimage to Santiago starting in Sarria which I passed through a few days ago, as this is minimum distance to receive the "Compostella" which I think means the pope wipes all your sins? It´s quite funny comparing all the people who start in Sarria to the people who have already walked nearly 800k- the latter being somewhat weather-beaten with giant backpacks weird tans (only on the left side of the body due to always walking in the same direction!) and very little tread left on their boots! The newbies meanwhile, fresh-faced in brand-new kit, doing warm-up lunges outside the pilgrim hostels, mostly walking in large groups only carrying tiny bags and 300ml water each as they have their kit transported for them by support vehicles which meet them every 5k to top up their water and give them energy bars etc! It´s a really good atmosphere though as there are slogans of encouragement written everywhere for various individuals "You can do it Maria!" etc, and also more general slogans- "No dolor no gloria!" (no pain no glory!) as well as several shops and bars playing motivational music for the pilgrims passing by.

For most people the Cathedral in Santiago is the final destination and I should arrive there on the 1st of June, which is good timing as one thing the Cathedral is famous for is the worlds biggest incense burner (solid silver and about 80kg) which on special occasions they light and swing out from the ceiling of the cathedral; I´ve heard the 2nd of June is such an occasion- let´s hope it is well secured to the ceiling I don´t want to come all this way to get squashed by a giant incense burner! Everyone is talking about what they will do when they arrive in Santiago- get a massage, check into a spa, sleep for a week, but I will be walking another 100k to the coast and my final destination, Finisterre, so that will all have to wait a few more days!